Last day???

Monday began with a lecture on the demographics of Israeli society from Paul Liptz, a social historian from Tel Aviv University. He's originally from Rhodesia, so the accent alone was a treat, and he is a lively and clear teacher, who gave us a clear sketch of the structure of Israeli society as it divides along class and economic lines. Again, as with all of our encounters, he was someone with whom we would have gladly spent the whole day learning.

The rest of the day was spent in the Old City of Jerusalem, beginning at the Kotel, moving into the Jewish Quarter for the Museum of the First Temple Period and then a visit to the Burnt House and the Cardo.

After lunch, we were joined by Daniel Rossing, Director of the Jerusalem Center for Jewish-Christian relations. He taught a sophisticated lesson in a very clear and practiced and simple way. He gave us both the theological background for what all the Christian communities find in/need from Jerusalem, and explained the different ways in which they overlap, are distinct, or exist in tension with one another.

He led us on a tour of the Christian quarter, showing at times the actual line in a plaster wall that divides the territory of one faith from another. We've had now three roof-top views of Jerusalem under the tutelage of three different teachers, each one offering a different perspective or lens for understanding the same topography.

Daniel brought us to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where we were met by my very dear friend Fr. Fergus Clarke, a Franciscan friar, who is once again stationed there, and who gave us a very personal and profound introduction to the church. Fergus shared (first of all he's one of the world's most charming human beings) what I would label a fervent, wholly committed "Reconstructionist" Catholicism in talking about the need (he didn't use the word, but I think it applies) to "revalue" certain ceremonies and traditions and how, in that place, where there is so much archaeological reality alongside so much post-facto architectural reimagining and conjecture, how he and the pilgrims who come to the church experience holiness in what is found there.

Just being with Fergus was a joy, hearing his explanation of his work and life was profoundly moving, and I wept when we said goodbye.

We all met up (again including Melin and Kylar, Alisha's daughter and son-in-law) at Tmol Shilshom, the "safe haven" literary cafe in the center of West Jerusalem, and had a lovely dinner there. A great place to end up after the energy and intensity of the old city.

Finally, at 10:15, Aaron, Amy, and I returned to the Kotel for a second visit. The first (it being Monday morning and Memorial Day weekend) was a bar mitzvah circus. The scene had been loud and frenetic. Now it was still busy, with hundreds of hasidic men and boys (but many fewer women) coming and going, praying and talking. The plaza was nearly empty, though. There were some minyanim, but no video cameras following various choruses of "Siman tov umazal tov," and the majesty of the Wall and the Old City itself was more palpable.

The Palestinian concierge at the hotel (an Old City native) asked me about the day when I got back, and he was shocked and surprised at our having been interested in and having spent time at the churches. I told him also about the walk we'd taken in Jaffa with our two tour guides, and he shared about the complexity and tension he experiences in Israel and in Jerusalem especially. I assured him that the whole point of this trip was to gain maximal experience of the complexity of Israeli society and identity. It was a lovely conversation with which to end the day.

A full day of appointments ahead (starting very soon, so I'm signing off NOW).

rddb